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What the French know about wine

New research has found that the British drink more alcohol on nights out than any of their west European neighbours. Well, quelle surprise! I could have told them that, since the only time I get hangovers in Paris is after nights out with visiting Brits.

The French enjoy their wine, obviously, but they tend to stop drinking when the bottle's empty. You don't see them – like my British friends – ordering another bottle, then another...

I know bugger-all about wine, so I've always been impressed at the way even slacker French pals can spend hours in the supermarket bickering over whether a Gigondas or a Morgon might best accompany, say, a barbecue. Oenophilia comes naturally to them. It seems to have been inculcated since babyhood. A mere sip is all they need to know that the bottle from which I have

Oenophilia comes naturally. It seems to have been inculcated since babyhood

been contentedly glugging for the past 10 minutes is hopelessly corked and needs to be poured away forthwith.

One of the most mortifying moments of my life was overhearing one French chum mercilessly ragging another about the lousy wine she'd brought to dinner – neither of them realising that the bottle had, in fact, been supplied by me. After this episode, I was so paranoid that whenever I needed to buy wine, I would always shell out on well-known brands of champagne.

Five years in France and I still know nothing about wine, but my palate has definitely gone native. On my occasional trips to the UK I now find the plonk in London pubs and bars - Australian or Chilean wine that I once would have quaffed quite happily - quite literally undrinkable.

FIRST POSTED APRIL 12, 2006
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