the Burgundy will tend to be closed and boring. With the second glass they will be on a par with the Burgundy developing and opening up while the Aussie stays the same. After that... well, you'll finish the Burgundy and the Aussie bottle will remain half full and undrunk.

It is interesting to note that in this country New World Wines are drunk predominantly by younger or less sophisticated drinkers. I am of course talking very much in generalities: there are lots of superb individual wines from the New World, most coming from the cooler climate wine growing areas.

That being said, it is important that a wine looks right for the occasion – a screw cap bottle of 'Badgers Bottom' from Tasmania won't wash when father-in-law comes to dinner: Chateau La Rose from Bordeaux probably fits that bill.