the world: the USA, Canada (where it is used to make 'ice-wine'), Kosovo, China and Australia, to name but a few.

For the most part, though, it is famous because it is the principal - and often sole - grape variety in Chateau Cheval Blanc, the world famous St Emillion 1st growth Claret whose 2008 wine opened on the 'en primeur' market for £3,500 a case.

In the Loire Valley, a good Chinon or St Nicholas de Bourgueil can be bought for around £10 a bottle, containing exactly the same juice as this illustrious Chateau Cheval Blanc. Do the Bordelaise really overprice their wine that much? Well, of course not. The yields from Cheval Blanc are tiny, the vineyards are tended with meticulous care and any grape that is not perfect is thrown away. As with anything, you get what you pay for.