A banquet in Bordeaux

At the end of last month the wine world held its biennial wine exhibition, Vinexpo, in Bordeaux with several thousand producers from around the world and more than 150,000 trade visitors.

Besides the exhibition itself, there were receptions and dinners every night - the most spectacular being at Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, one of the top St Julien 2nd classified growths.

The dinner at Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou was hosted by Bruno Borie, the dashing showman proprietor, to celebrate the Fete of St Jean with about 250

lucky guests. It was a perfect, balmy night that started with a champagne reception (Dom Perignon 2000 in magnums) in the gardens overlooking the Gironde River.

At the bottom of the garden there was an enormous glass marquee, which looked as if it might have been borrowed from Kew Gardens, with 25 tables seating 20 - each with its own chef and sommelier.

The food - the minor player of the evening - was spectacular. For the first course, plates of beautifully presented pates, foie gras, tatins and salads. Then followed three exquisite main courses: carre de veau, cotes de boeuf and carre de cochon, each served with the freshest vegetables. And to finish, fruit that we simply don't see over here.

As good as the food was,