the wine was the real point of the banquet - a succession of Château Ducru Beaucaillou in magnums from all the great vintages: 2005, 2003, 2000, 1995, 1970 and the 1961. All were superb.

The 1961 was from the greatest vintage of the 20th Century (perhaps ever), when the Chateau made one of the outstanding wines of that great year. It is now a collector's item and, if you can find it, will set you back over £1,000 a bottle. The wine was youthful, rich and concentrated - a taste sensation that is unrivalled.

I asked myself after this sumptuous banquet whether it was all a little over the top. But actually I concluded that no, it was not. It was all in the very best taste and everyone who was there will remember the Fete de St Jean at Chateau Ducru Beacaillou for many years to come - and that is what really good marketing is all about!