Victoria Beckham unveils ‘sophisticated’ collection

Could it be time to finally start taking Victoria Beckham seriously? Last December the former Spice Girl launched her designer range to widespread approval from the fashion industry, although some wondered whether Roland Mouret - one of David Beckham's wife's favourite designers - had helped her with it.

But last night at New York Fashion Week Beckham proved that she is no one-hit wonder, by launching a third collection that has been hailed as savvy both in a fashion sense as well as financially. "For this season she has wisely stuck with her usual style, but there is greater sophistication, with complex wrap cuts and bolder colours," said Guardian fashion writer Hadley Freeman.

Instead of holding a one-off fashion show, Beckham personally unveiled her spring/summer 2010 collection in a Manhattan art gallery to a dozen small groups of fashion editors and buyers on Sunday night. Her key look remains the sculptured, knee-length dress but she has also introduced other styles, such as a long elegant evening dress with a train, and spray-painted prints.

Within just three seasons Beckham, 34, has managed to establish herself as a designer in demand, with flourishing sales for dresses that cost between £900 and £4,000. As well as popularising her figure-hugging dresses herself, Beckham's designs have also been seen on Madonna, Brooke Shields and Elle Macpherson - who was photographed wearing LBDs from the autumn/winter collection three days in a row. Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman owns a VB dress while actress Leighton Meester recently filmed scenes for the cult US TV series, Gossip Girl, wearing a VB scarlet 'Carmontelle' peplum dress.

Beckham's label has been one of the biggest fashion successes of recent years. Her last collection nearly sold out in advance on net-a-porter.com and was completely sold out at Neiman Marcus within hours.

Last night, fashion writers noted Beckham is gaining confidence as a designer. The new collection is "flawlessly made", said the Times' fashion editor Lisa Armstrong. "Like her own style, which is more relaxed these days (the mussed-up hair helped), the collection is becoming more playful."

Anne Christensen, the fashion director of US magazine T, said: "Victoria Beckham’s slim, structured 1940s-influenced dresses with exposed zippers are very sexy and not for the faint of heart!" Another key detail in the collection was a strong waist band, an emerging trend at New York Fashion Week, noted Samantha Critchell for Associated Press. "Victoria Beckham knows fashion, not just how to wear it but also how to make it - and that's pretty impressive."

Beckham acknowledged that she felt the industry was now taking her seriously. "I know I came from a pop band and I'm married to a footballer - a very lovely footballer - but I think the fashion industry has accepted me," she said. "I’m grateful that people are prepared to leave their preconceptions at the door and let the dresses speak for themselves."