Neighbours cry foul over Aikens’s fish shop

The pungent smell of burning cooking oil could prove the undoing of Tom Aikens's latest venture, Tom's Kitchen, a traditional fish and chip eaterie in Chelsea. For some time now local residents, among themSir Michael Jenkins, the former president of Boeing UK, have bombarded the chef with complaints about the foul odours that emanate from the restaurant's kitchens.

Until now, Aikens has insisted that the ventilation systems are sufficient, but Chelsea and Kensington council have decided to take action. Says a spokesman: "We have made it clear that the existing situation is not acceptable and have now instituted legal proceedings in the absence of works being carried out."

The news will gladden Sir Michael, 72, who says: “He [Aikens] opens from early in the morning until eleven at night, including Sundays, and we're always having to complain. If it blows to the west, I get a horrible smell."

Another resident who has been affected is Laura Benjamin, the designer. "The smell of old cooking fat is everywhere," she says. "It is in the communal hall. My curtains smell of it - even my bed linen. The value of our flats has been halved and everyone is furious." She adds: "There should be a state-of-the art filtration plant. Instead, there is a huge fan the size of two aircraft engines three inches from my terrace which spreads a poisonous so-called deodorant that gives us all chest infections."

Aikens, 38, insists he has done everything to control the smells. "The deodoriser is perfectly acceptable, tested and approved or we wouldn't be allowed to use it. We've also changed our fat from beef to vegetable. It's very difficult to please everyone." Clearly.